Traditional Jewelry of Bihar: A Glimpse into the Rich Heritage of Maithili and Mughal Influence

Content Curated By Nikhita Madhu

Bihar, a land steeped in history and cultural richness, is home to some of the most exquisite and traditional jewelry in India. The jewelry of Bihar is a reflection of its Mithila, Mughal, and tribal influences, showcasing a blend of grandeur, simplicity, and fine craftsmanship. Whether it’s the regal Paunji Nupur or the delicate Tikuli art jewelry, Bihar’s ornaments hold a special place in the heart of every jewelry lover.

Let’s explore some of the most iconic traditional jewelry pieces of Bihar:

Paunji Nupur – The Regal Gold Bangles and Anklets

A significant part of Bihari bridal jewelry, Paunji Nupur refers to intricately designed gold bangles and silver anklets worn by women during weddings and festive occasions. The bangles are often made in thick gold sheets with elaborate motifs, symbolizing prosperity and good fortune.

Hansuli – The Heritage Choker Necklace

Hansuli is a broad, rigid choker necklace traditionally crafted in silver or gold. Worn by women in Mithila and Bhojpuri regions, it is admired for its bold structure and intricate engravings. It is considered a symbol of wealth and status in Bihari culture.

Chandan Haar – The Delicate Layered Necklace

A beautifully designed multi-layered gold necklace, Chandan Haar is a staple in Bihari bridal jewelry. Crafted with intricate floral and geometric designs, this necklace is both lightweight and elegant, making it a timeless piece for women of Bihar.

Sitahar – The Necklace of Goddess Sita

Inspired by Goddess Sita, who is believed to have originated from Bihar, Sitahar is a long, gold necklace embedded with precious and semi-precious stones. It is often passed down as a family heirloom, symbolizing love, devotion, and cultural heritage.

Tikuli Jewelry – The Art of Vibrant Enamel Work

One of the most unique forms of jewelry from Bihar, Tikuli art jewelry is created using vibrant enamel work on metal surfaces. Originating from the Mithila region, these colorful ornaments are crafted in designs depicting folk motifs, floral patterns, and religious symbols.

Panchlari Haar – The Five-Strand Necklace

As the name suggests, Panchlari Haar consists of five layers of gold chains, often adorned with pearls, gemstones, or gold beads. It is a symbol of elegance and is commonly worn by brides in Bihar.

Jhumka – The Classic Gold Earrings

Bihari women love adorning themselves with large, intricately designed Jhumkas (dangling earrings). These earrings are usually crafted in gold and are popular in both rural and urban regions of the state.

Surya Haar – The Sun-Inspired Necklace

The Surya Haar is a traditional gold necklace inspired by the Sun God, worshiped in Bihar, especially during Chhath Puja. This necklace features circular sun motifs, reflecting Bihar’s spiritual and cultural heritage.

Nath – The Oversized Bridal Nose Ring

A grand gold nose ring (nath) is a crucial part of Bihari bridal jewelry. Often encrusted with pearls or small gemstones, it enhances the beauty of the bride and signifies marital prosperity.

Bajubandh – The Ornate Armlet

Bihari brides and dancers often wear Bajubandh (armlets), crafted with gold and embedded with colorful stones. It is a symbol of femininity, strength, and elegance.

Maang Tikka – The Forehead Ornament

No traditional Bihari look is complete without a Maang Tikka. This headpiece, made of gold with delicate embellishments, adds a royal charm to the bridal look.

Kardhani – The Waist Belt of Grace

Kardhani, or the gold/silver waist belt, is a traditional ornament worn by Bihari brides. It not only enhances their bridal look but also helps in securing the saree or lehenga in place.

The jewelry of Bihar is deeply rooted in its cultural and religious traditions, with each piece carrying a significant meaning. Whether it’s the elaborate Paunji Nupur worn by brides or the artistic Tikuli jewelry cherished by artisans, Bihari jewelry is a testament to fine craftsmanship and heritage.

Even today, these traditional ornaments remain an essential part of Bihar’s festivals, weddings, and daily life, celebrating the state’s rich artistic history.