Phulkari - Punjab's vibrant heritage

 The traditional Punjabi art form 'Phulkari,' derived from the terms 'phul' and 'kari,' meaning flower and effort, is thought to have begun in Punjab in the 15th century by Punjabi women. Bright and bright textile art uses needlework and the most basic designs to create a fascinating, appealing, and ornamented result. Phulkari work is reported to be mentioned in Heer Ranjha's Waris Shah love romance. References to this needlework tradition can also be found in the Vedic period. Women's phulkari chadar, dupattas, sarees and other veil garments were traditionally exchanged as bridal gifts or heirlooms.

The inspiration for the Phulkari motifs would originate from their imaginations based on their surroundings, nature, animals, birds, gardens, or even a mother-daughter conversation. Marigolds, jasmine, peacock, and mustard flowers were frequently used as a means of expressing their feelings, inventiveness, and expressiveness. 

Because Phulkari is made out of symmetrical designs, the craftsmen and women must count the amount of stitches on each side before proceeding, making Phulkari a time-consuming method. However, as time passed, people moved on to new techniques, and in addition to coarse khaddar fabrics, silk, georgette, chiffon, and normal cotton began to be used. Darning stitch- the most significant stitch- was used to border the khaddar in the past. Other stitches like herringbone, buttonhole, and running stitch were also utilized. These stitches were employed to make a unique motif or as a border. 

The use of colors is extremely important in Phulkari art. Traditionally, just four hues were utilized, each with its unique meaning. For example, white is appropriate for elderly women and widows, red is appropriate for young girls and brides-to-be, and blue, black, and dark tones are appropriate for everyday use. Red was the most commonly used color to express enthusiasm, followed by orange for vitality and green for fertility. 

In India, there is not just one sort of Phulkari, but numerous. What distinguishes one Phulkari from another is the darn stitching process, which is done on the reverse or wrong side of the fabric, which makes this handcraft unique. Here are some of the most popular Phulkari designs.

Bagh- A design in which horizontal, vertical, or diagonal stitching cover the entire fabric surface. 

Chhamas - Chhamas fabric has mirrors stitched or woven onto it with yellow, grey, or blue threads.

Neelak- Neelak patterns have a black or red backdrop with bright yellow or red embroidery on top. For a distinct shining texture, the design is combined with metal or copper threads.

Chope- Chope is traditionally done in yellow and red threads and involves embroidering on both sides of the fabric. This embroidery is made out of a series of triangles or a step-ladder pattern.

There used to be 52 different types of Phulkaris, but that number has since been reduced to only a few. The states that use the Phulkari traditional art and needlework the most are Punjab, Haryana, and Rajasthan.